Albarino and Savagnin Misidentified Wines
Australian Winegrowers Find They Have the Wrong Variety
May 29, 2009
DNA testing has confirmed that the grapes previously thought to be Albarino grapes in Australian vineyards are in fact Savagnin.
Vine nursery mix ups are more frequent than most wine drinkers realise, but the latest case in Australia is causing considerable controversy in the local industry.
As part of the varietal diversification over the past two decades many new varieties have been tried by Australian winemakers.
What is Albarino?
Albarino is a grape variety used extensively in the Gallicia region of North West Spain, and in neighboring regions of Portugal. It is a thick skinned variety suitable for the wet climate of the region. Albarino wines are high in alcohol and acidity and are increasingly aged before release. They are the most highly regarded, and expensive Spanish white wines.
What is Savagnin?
Savagnin is white wine variety best known in the Jura region in Eastern France. It is used to produce the curious Vin Jaune. Savagnin is not related to Sauvignon Blanc.
Vin Jaune is an extraordinary style of wine exclusive to Eastern France. It is produced in a similar way to Flor Sherry by maturation in barrels which are not quite filled.
Until recently Savagnin was thought to be grown only in the Jura region but it seems that many Albarino vineyards, both in Spain and in Australia may be partly or wholly Savagnin.
The winegrowers have made the error unwittingly and in good faith as they have sourced their propagating material from the CSIRO, the leading scientific body in Australia.
So What's the Problem?
A wines that have been produced in Australia as 'Albarino' have been well received by judges and critics as well as some of the early adopters among Australian wine consumers. It seems that
The problem is in marketing. It is an expensive business to get wine consumers to try a new variety let alone switch to it.
Under labeling laws it is an offence to mislead consumers about the variety that is used in making a wine. The option of calling the wines Albarino is not open.
The problem is that calling the wine Savagnin, while technically correct, is a marketing nightmare. The name is just too similar to Sauvignon Blanc,a popular white wine but not in any way similar.
The Future
It seems that most of the existing growers of 'Albarino' are happy with the variety that they have. They believe that the wine is excellent, but they obvoiusly have to develop a new marketing plan.
Savvy consumers will probably support the winemakers with whatever solution they come up with but the commercial reality is that the varietal ACinnovators in Australia have suffered a setback.
